🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.